London's African culinary scene

26 - 30 April 2025. London Field visit Forgotten Foods Consortium, supported by the Global Forum for Agricultural and Innovation Research (GFAiR).

African restaurants in London have a rich history that mirrors the city's evolving cultural landscape. In the mid-20th century, as immigrants from various African nations settled in London, they brought with them their culinary traditions. 

Initially, African cuisine was primarily shared within homes and community gatherings. Over time, informal eateries and food stalls began to emerge, offering dishes that provided a taste of home for the diaspora. 

These establishments often served as community hubs, fostering connections among immigrants and introducing African flavors to a broader audience.

In recent years, there has been a notable rise in the number and diversity of African restaurants across London. This growth reflects both the increasing African diaspora and a broader interest in global cuisines. While exact numbers fluctuate, it's evident that West African cuisines, particularly Nigerian and Ghanaian, have a significant presence. Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurants are also prominent, especially in areas like Brixton and Dalston. Other regions, such as North and South Africa, are represented through Moroccan, Algerian, and South African establishments. This diverse culinary scene offers Londoners and visitors alike a chance to experience the rich tapestry of African flavors and traditions.

London's African culinary scene

London's African culinary scene has flourished in recent years, with several restaurants dedicated to reviving traditional and lesser-known dishes from across the continent. These establishments offer immersive dining experiences that celebrate Africa's rich and diverse gastronomic heritage.

Several establishments not only provide delicious meals but also serve as cultural ambassadors, educating diners about the diverse and rich culinary traditions of Africa.

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  For those seeking a more homely atmosphere, Tatale at The Africa Centre in Southwark offers a pan-African menu that includes both well-known and obscure dishes. The restaurant aims to provide a communal dining experience reminiscent of traditional African gatherings . Similarly, Merkato in King's Cross specializes in Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisines, serving dishes like injera with various stews, reflecting the rich culinary traditions of East Africa.
• Akoko, located in Fitzrovia, is a Michelin-starred restaurant that showcases refined interpretations of West African cuisine. Founded by Aji Akokomi, Akoko's menu features dishes inspired by the culinary traditions of Nigeria, Ghana, Senegal, and The Gambia, utilizing ingredients like calabash nutmeg, fermented locust beans, and suya spices . In Borough Market, Akokomi's second venture, Akara, offers a more casual dining experience centered around the eponymous black-eyed pea fritter, a staple in both West African and Brazilian cuisines .
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  Chishuru, situated in Fitzrovia, is another Michelin-starred establishment that delves into traditional West African flavors. Chef Adejoké Bakare crafts a menu that pays homage to her Nigerian heritage, presenting dishes that are both authentic and innovative. Her approach has garnered acclaim for bringing West African cuisine to the forefront of London's fine dining scene. Chishuru is renowned for its dedication to reviving and celebrating traditional and lesser-known African dishes.
  
  One such dish is Ekuru, a steamed bean cake made from peeled black-eyed beans and
  
  wildwatermelon seeds, traditionally enjoyed by the Yoruba people of Nigeria. At Chishuru, it's innovatively paired with pumpkin seed pesto and Scotch bonnet sauce, offering a modern twist on a classic.
  
  Another highlight is Sinasir, a fermented rice cake rooted in Hausa cuisine, served with toppings like dressed crab and tempura sorrel, showcasing the depth of Northern Nigerian flavors.
  
  The menu also features Moi Moi, a savory bean pudding, and Ekoki, a corn-based dish, both
  
  staples in Nigerian households but rarely seen in Western restaurants. For dessert, Chishuru offers Fonio & Carob, utilizing fonio, an ancient grain native to West Africa, paired with carob custard, coconut crisp, and peanut praline, reflecting the rich agricultural heritage of the region.

The GAMAAL app

The GAMAAL app is a UK-based platform launched in February 2023 by Fatoumata Diallo, aiming to connect home cooks with food enthusiasts seeking authentic, home-cooked meals. Officially launched in Camden on June 8, 2024, the app focuses on promoting traditional and often overlooked dishes from the Global South, such as those made with millet, amaranth, and native legumes. By featuring these nutrient-rich ingredients, GAMAAL not only preserves culinary heritage but also supports local economies and sustainable food systems. The platform empowers predominantly female cooks, providing them with opportunities to share their culinary skills and stories, thereby fostering community engagement and cultural preservation.

See also: ADAF 2024: The Gamaal dynamic homecooked food app